Licensed and insured Utah S350 Plumbing Contractor Water heaters only since 2009 Booking today
Ogden and Northern Utah

Before you call anyone,check these four things.

A fair number of no heat calls turn out to be a thermostat, a switch or a tripped breaker. We would rather you found that out for free.

Start here

What is it doing?

Pick the closest. Takes about thirty seconds.

We come back with what actually failed, whether it is a part or the tank, and what each option costs. No visit needed to get that far.

Or call (801) 643-5784

Repair first

We do not condemn a water heater because of its birthday. Many have years left with an anode rod, a valve or a flush.

Flat upfront pricing

Quoted and approved before anything starts. No hourly meter, no line items added while we are in there.

Same day capable

A person answers the phone. Real arrival windows, and parts on the truck for the common faults.

What it is probably doing

Not every no heat call needs a technician. Thermostats get knocked onto the wrong setting, service switches get flipped by someone looking for a light, breakers trip, and condensate lines block on condensing units in cold weather.

None of that is worth paying a callout for, so here is the short list to work through first. If none of it applies, the fault is in the system and that is the point at which calling makes sense.

A technician checking a heating system control panel
The serial number comes first. It tells us the build year, which is the only honest way to know the age of a heater. Everything after that is tracing the symptom.
Check first

Thermostat set wrong or batteries dead

The most common cause of all, and it costs nothing to rule out.

Check first

Service switch turned off

Often looks like a light switch near the boiler. Gets flipped by accident.

Reset once only

Breaker tripped

Reset it once. If it trips again, stop and call, because something is drawing fault current.

Look at the gauge

System pressure too low

Most boilers lock out below about twelve psi. The gauge will tell you.

Seasonal, common

Condensate line frozen or blocked

Common on condensing boilers in a cold snap. Often clears with warm water.

Note the code

Locked out with a fault code

Note the code before resetting. It is the fastest route to the right part.

Tell us the symptom. We will tell you which one it is.

Get an honest diagnosis
Or call (801) 643-5784

The honest diagnosis

The same four steps on every call, whether it turns into a two hundred dollar repair or nothing at all.

A technician checking a residential water heater against a tablet in a utility room
01

Call or send the details

Age, symptom, and what it is doing. A person answers, not a queue.

Most questions answered on the call
02

We diagnose it

Serial read, symptom traced, tank checked. About twenty minutes.

You find out what actually failed
03

You get both numbers

Repair cost and replacement cost, side by side, in writing, with our recommendation.

Flat price, approved before we start
04

We do the work

Parts on the truck for common repairs. Replacement stock available same day.

Price does not move

If we recommend a repair and the tank fails within a year, the repair comes off the replacement

We would rather be wrong at our own expense than sell you a water heater you did not need. Every install is warranted on parts and labour.

What it costs

Published, because you should be able to work out roughly where you stand before anyone comes to the house.

  • Diagnostic visit, if you still need one $225 to $900
  • Emergency no heat call $250 to $1,100
  • Annual service, to avoid the above $150 to $325
9x A repair starts at $225. Replacing a gas water heater starts at $2,100. That gap is the entire reason we diagnose before we quote.

Where you land in the range

The low end is a thermocouple or a thermostat. The high end is a gas control valve, or work that needs the tank drained and a fitting cut out.

We tell you which end you are on before the work starts, and the price does not move after that.

Sediment laden water draining from a water heater into a bucket
What $150 buys. Sediment out of a tank that had never been flushed. The cheapest line on the list, and the one that keeps a heater off the rest of it.

We will tell you which of these numbers applies to your house.

Get my number
Or call (801) 643-5784
Cutaway diagram of a residential tank water heater Six labelled components: anode rod, dip tube, temperature and pressure relief valve, sediment layer, drain valve, and thermostat with gas control. 1 2 3 4 5 6
Standard 40 to 50 gallon tank, cutaway. Orange marks the sediment layer, the most common cause of a heater that sounds like it is failing but is not.
What actually fails

Five of these six are parts. One is the tank.

  • 1
    Anode rod

    Corrodes so the steel tank does not. Spent by roughly year five, and almost nobody replaces it.

  • 2
    Dip tube

    Carries cold water to the bottom. When it cracks, cold mixes at the top and the shower turns lukewarm early.

  • 3
    Temperature and pressure valve

    A safety device. If it weeps it is usually the valve or the expansion tank pressure, not the heater.

  • 4
    Sediment layer

    Hard water leaves scale on the tank floor, insulating the burner from the water. That is the rumbling.

  • 5
    Drain valve

    Prone to seeping once it has been opened after years of neglect.

  • 6
    Thermostat and gas control

    Governs burner and pilot. The usual reason a pilot will not hold.

Questions we get asked

My heating has stopped. What should I check first?

The thermostat setting and its batteries, the service switch near the boiler, the breaker, and the system pressure gauge. Those four account for a large share of the calls that turn out not to need a repair at all.

What pressure should my boiler be at?

Most residential systems sit around twelve to fifteen psi cold. Much below twelve and the boiler will usually lock out rather than fire. If it keeps dropping, there is a leak or the expansion vessel has failed.

Should I keep resetting my boiler?

Reset once. If it locks out again, stop. Repeated resetting on a fault can turn a small problem into a bigger one, and the fault code it is showing is the fastest route to the right repair.

Why does my condensate pipe freeze?

Condensing boilers produce acidic water that has to drain. If that pipe runs somewhere cold it can freeze in a snap and back the boiler up. Warm water on the pipe often clears it, and rerouting or insulating stops it recurring.

It is none of those. What now?

Then it is in the system, and that is a real diagnosis rather than a checklist. Call (801) 643-5784 and we will work the sequence.

Do you charge to tell me it was the thermostat?

If we come out, yes, there is a call charge. That is exactly why this page exists, so you can rule out the free fixes before spending anything.

Tell us what it is doing

Three questions. We will tell you whether this is a part or a tank, and roughly what each one costs, before anybody schedules anything.

Fastest way (801) 643-5784

Mon to Sat, 7am to 7pm. Emergency service available.

Response

Most repair calls are seen the same day. Replacements are usually next day, sooner if the tank is leaking.

What you get back

What most likely failed, whether it is a part or the tank, and what each option costs. In writing, before anything is scheduled.

Where we work

Based in Ogden, UT. We come to you across nineteen cities in Weber, Davis and Morgan County.

What is it doing?
Pick the closest.
Optional. Noises, when it started, what you have already tried.

No obligation, and no in home visit needed to get a straight answer. If it sounds like a repair on the phone, we will say so.

Find out what is actually wrong with it.

Tell us the age, the symptom and what it is doing. We will tell you whether this is a part or a tank, and what each one costs, before anybody schedules anything.

Speak to a technician (801) 643-5784

Mon to Sat, 7am to 7pm. Emergency service available.

Call (801) 643-5784 Get a diagnosis